what spark plug to use in my 265 1956 chevy

Username Postal service: Engine timing (Topic#236363)
rexy 
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02-24-10 08:37 AM - Mail#1868647    

I just reinstalled my distibutor and re set the timing (static timing), the engine is now running well. I accept been told that i should now take the motorcar to my local garage to have the timing gear up dynamically (on a motorcar), they are asking for some technical data for the timing which I cannot seem to find in the manuals. Tin anyone help on this, and is the advice above right ? In my internet research the timing setting was washed statically. These may be U.1000 terms the car is a 57 chevy 283 motor. The distibutor is not origional rather electronic and then at that place are no points to ready. Thank you Rexy


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56driver 
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02-24-10 09:32 AM - Post#1868677    
In response to rexy

What you specifically mean past dynamic? Standard procedure, after getting the engine running with a shut guess, would exist to apply a timing light to cheque the timing with the engine running at a specified RPM, with the vacuum accelerate disconnected. Timing lights can be had cheaply at machine parts stores.

See '55 manual for an case of the process:

link to 55 transmission

The verbal specs volition vary with twelvemonth and exact engine (2-barrel, "Power Pack", etc.) You need to refer to a 57 Chevrolet Shop manual. You tin find that here, or I'one thousand sure someone may have a browse:

57 manual

Information technology is besides possible to map the consummate timing feature past checking the timing at pocket-size increments over a range of RPM. This is usually washed in "performance" applications.

Jonathan Hines
Charlotte, NC
56 BA 4DR sedan undergoing rebuild

Edited by 56driver on 02-24-ten 09:41 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

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rexy 
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02-24-x 10:35 AM - Post#1868704    
In response to 56driver

In response to Jonathan
Thank you for that, its the terminolgy the British Mechanic used. I think static must mean the rough estimate you mention. O.K timing calorie-free, im now seeing this in the shop transmission. It says run engine at chiliad R.P.M with light aimed at pinnacle left of harmonic balancer.............. rotate distibutor trunk until marking on harmonic balancer lines up with the 4 degree BUDC mark on the timing tab welded to the front end end cover. This is 2 marks towards the center of the vehicle from "0" mark. Does this make sense ? Thanks Rexy


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56driver 
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02-24-10 11:01 AM - Post#1868714    
In response to rexy

Rexy

Yes, the timing light is just a strobe that is triggered by the #1 cylinder spark plug.

There are 2 ways of approaching the procedure. Ane would be to use a "fixed" timing light which fires exactly when the #1 plug fires. In this example yous must observe the position of the line on the balancer relative to the graduated timing tab, equally stated in the manual. Adjust the distributor position and re-test as necessary.

The other method would be to purchase a timing light with a variable advance setting. In this case, you gear up the light for the desired number of degrees of advance, then you adjust the distributor so the balancer mark is on the "O" line when the strobe fires.

This tin brand the procedure easier since there is a single refernce and no need to interpolate marks. It can too be used as a rough-in measurement by moving the timing calorie-free aligning knob until "O" is obtained on the timing tab and then observing where the adjustment knob is set on the calibration.

In either case information technology helps to mark both the balancer line and the tabe with white chalk for visibility.

Notation in any case that the timing is variable and a stated timing specification is a indicate measurment which must be measured and set under the specific conditions stated in the transmission, i.e. vacuum advance disconnected and engine at idle or other specified RPM.

There is a fair difference in the spec for the various engine options. The baseline one in the transmission I posted would exist for a base engine, e.g. depression compression 2-butt carburetor. Those settings volition work on higher output versions but y'all will lose performance and efficiency. You lot should consult a 57 manual for your particular engine.

random search of timing lights at UK shop

Jonathan Hines
Charlotte, NC
56 BA 4DR sedan undergoing rebuild

Edited by 56driver on 02-24-10 xi:17 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

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52chevybob 
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02-24-10 01:41 PM - Post#1868798    
In response to 56driver

When yous do all of this, makee sure that you lot set the dwell first equally this will affeect the creepo timing. Tryt to get the exact xxx de.g desireed. I like to prepare the creepo timing by ear as this will requite the most power out of the engine but seetting information technology by the timing light will practise quite weell. Doing information technology by ear with today'southward loftier octane gas will probably mean another 4 deg. or so moree accelerate When yous get theee timing all set, lock the dist down firmly and in the future you volition be ablee to become the correct accelerate by seting the dwell to the right thirty deg. and thus y'all can adjust the points dwell by checking the addvbance and setting it to the correct number by irresolute the dwell setting.


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beejay 
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02-24-10 01:53 PM - Post#1868805    
In response to 56driver

Rexy,

Jonathan has just given y'all a very good way to time your car. I will requite you another starting at the beginning IF the distributor has been removed:

With #ane spark plug removed, stuff with tissue to plug the hole. With a remote starter, Southward Fifty O Westward 50 Y turn the engine over until the tissue is blown out. You are VERY most summit dead middle of #1. Put the plug dorsum in. Disconnect the vacuum advance and put a vacuum judge on the carb outlet. With a tachometer, adjust idle to proper speed. At present, adjust the timing to get maximum vacuum. And so suit your carb for maximum vacuum. Keep going until maximum vacuum is achieved past adjusting both timing and idle. Reconnect the vacuum line and take information technology out for a bulldoze. If, with hard acceleration, information technology knocks, go back and, using a timing light, set the timing back about 2 degrees. Road trip again. Do this until no knock is heard. Now, the method Jonathan gave you is easier and faster. I've found that my way gave me a little more oomph. Either method, have fun. Both means will piece of work.

Bruce

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Powerglide56 
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02-24-10 06:06 PM - Post#1868960    
In response to beejay

In my experience, detonation/pining is not e'er audible and may not occurr at all on these depression compression engines. Even with gross amounts of total ignition timing. Early 265 and 283 V8s respond well to four-vi degrees of boosted timing over what the FSM recommends. The manufacturing plant settings were somewhat conservative primarily considering pump octane was less than 87 in many parts of the country in the mid 1950s. If your auto/motor is in good condition and you use 89 octane fuel--I suggest a base timing setting of between 6 to 12 degrees. I'v endemic my 1956 Chevy, 265 2 barrel, V8 Powerglide for over 30 years. It's completley stock (stock single point breaker distributor also) and runs best with 8 degrees initial timing. That'south 4 degrees more than what the FSM recommends. If you lot dial in too much timing---you may still NOT hear detonation. Check your spark plugs. If they are ashen white with speckles or DAMAGED---they are probably running too hot. Back off on the timing until the plugs return to a grayish dark-brown color. You really NEED a dialback timing light in club to check total timing at various engine speeds. Initial timing of say 8 degrees plus 24 degrees DISTRIBUTOR timing plus 12 degrees or and so of vacuum advance gives 44 degrees Total timing--about perfect for a stock, low compression, CLOSED Chamber caput 265 or 283. If yous demand much more than that---the balancer has probably slipped, your timing tab is off, y'all take an assemblage of mis-matched parts inside the engine, or there is something wrong with the motor.

Edited past Powerglide56 on 02-24-ten 06:12 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

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jaxbeachdawg 
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02-24-ten 06:xvi PM - Post#1868968    
In response to 52chevybob

If he has a electronic dist,he said no points,so no dwell right ?

1957 Chevrolet 4 Door Bel Air Sedan,283 Ability Pack,Powerglide,Power Brakes and Steering,81,000 Documented Miles,Proudly Driven In Loving Retentiveness Of My Son Cory(1983-2000)


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overdrive 
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02-24-ten 06:52 PM - Post#1868997    
In response to jaxbeachdawg

That's correct.

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rexy 
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02-24-10 xi:51 PM - Post#1869101    
In response to overdrive

In response to all
Thanks very much I now take a much better understanding of this and will proceed as advsised.
Rexy


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wagonman100 
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02-25-10 04:37 AM - Post#1869134    
In response to rexy

As an explanation of static and dynamic timing, static timing is setting the initial timing for the benefactor to start making spark at a specific time (ordinarily before TDC), at an idle. After the static timing is set, the weights and springs in the distributor determine the rate at which the spark advance happens co-ordinate to engine RPM. The vacuum advance as well is there to guess engine load and conform the timing accordingly. Near of the time for a street driven machine, a factory setup on the advance weights (and the vacuum advance if information technology is adaptable) will suffice. It is when y'all get into wanting more performance out of the engine that people start to play with the weights and springs and change the spark curve for how fast the timing comes in and the amount of total timing. That is what adjusting the dynamic timing is. Playing with the distributor to get the timinig curve to where it will bring the about ability. Getting the most ability out of the engine will normally increment efficiency as well since the spark is tailored to the engine needs.

Jay
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52chevybob 
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02-25-10 04:09 PM - Postal service#1869462    
In response to wagonman100

Yeah, no explicit dwell as such on elecgtronic dist. Dwell is the corporeality of timee that thee points are open vs. closed and is commonly set to l$ on most Kettering (points type ign. system( ign. systeems Electronic systems merely use a trigger for the beginning time of the firing betoken and, ane manner or the other, automatically fix the spark length to what works.
I'll note that I usually gear up my timing by ear, that is, setting thee idle rpm for the max that happens due to timing changes. With a properly setup mechanical advance, thiss usuallly tracks whaat is best all across the speed range.


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